'Posing Productions' join the Team

Alastair Lee from Posing Productions has decided to dispatch one of his top cameramen to film our exploits in Alaska. Having produced several award winning climbing films, like The Asguard Project, On Sight, and Psyche we are very happy that these guys want to be part of our expedition.
Watch this space....

Peak Training Week

With just over one week now until we leave for Alaska training hits max intensity and volume! Matt has been hitting the hill running hard with 6 laps up to la Flegere per session, high volume PE (power endurance) bouldering, and 3 hours of circuit training per day. I've been out on my road bike doing more volume, plus better times on my regular TT route up to Col des Montets (although still a long way off my PB set a year ago when I was still doing ski alpinism racing), skinning, bouldering, dry tooling, running, and circuit training when my eight month old son Joshua is asleep!!
Today we had another session at la Balme (Arve Valley limestone) getting slicker at aid/big wall techniques- not our normal style but we are going prepared for all eventualities.

Training hard and getting organised!

During April we have been stepping up the training to make sure we are is the best possible shape for Alaska. Alongside working as IFMGA mountain guides and having plenty of big days out in the mountains, we try and fit in at least 20 hours/week of specific training:
1) Endurance - running/road cycling
2) Resistance- circuit training/weights/hill reps
3) Climbing specific- bouldering/dry tooling

Yesterday we went for a climb together on the North face of Les Courtes in the Argentiere basin, which was great fun and it really helps with mental preparation to be climbing together in the weeks proceeding an expedition. We soloed the Swiss route in 1hr42mins going at a steady pace (av. heart rate for Jon 150bpm) and then down-climbed the NE face back to our skis.
We also had a day rock climbing in the sun at Balme this week. We used the day to practice different hauling systems as we may end up taking a haul bag on Mount Hunter due to the sustained technical difficulties we foresee.
Recent evenings have been spent getting all our logistics sorted, and we have also received some good news from the British Mountaineering Council in that they have offered us an expedition grant.

 Matt Helliker on the Swiss Route, Les Courtes N face

Jon Bracey descending the East ridge of Les Courtes

'Mission Statement'

Jules Cartwright was undoubtedly one of the most talented and driven alpinists of his generation. One of his many ambitions was to climb two new routes on the North Buttress (aka The Moonflower Buttress) of Mount Hunter. In 2001 along with Ian Parnell he completed the first half of this challenge with the first ascent of 'The Knowledge' (Alaskan grade 6: ED4 5.7 A2++ AI6, ca. 6000ft), which remains un-repeated to this day.

In May Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey will attempt to complete Jules' mission by climbing an entirely new line up the Moonflower Buttress. Climbing alpine style the team expect to find continuous technical difficulties and hence will require many days worth of effort on the wall!

Jon Bracey made the second ascent of the French Route/North Couloir(Alaskan grade 6: ca. 6000ft, Grison-Tedeschi, 1984) with Andy Houseman back in 2007, and also made a sub 24 hour ascent and descent of the west Ridge(Beckey-Harrer-Meybohm, 1954) with Rich Cross back in 2003. So he already know plenty about this mountain and how hard the challenge ahead is going to be!

Matt and Jon are a well proven team having already had two highly successful expeditions to Alaska, with no less than 3 first ascents in the Range:
'There's a Moose Loose aboot this Hoose' ED4 on the Mooses Tooth
'Meltdown' ED2 on Mount Grosvenor
'For Whom the Bell Tolls' ED on Mount Church

Photo: 'Moonflower Buttress' from Kahiltna basecamp